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Over time, as the scars of war have faded or been removed the vast empire of the Commonwealth Graves Commission has largely taken over as the main tourist attraction on what was the western front. For the British, these neat and if you are in the mood, moving cemeteries continue to hold particular fascination but other nations are ‘fighting’ back for the tourist Euro. For example bits of that extraordinarily expensive failure – the Maginot line (a kind of star wars of its day) are being dusted down and provided with cafes and lavatories and a fair bit of advertising. The massive concrete construction, La Coupole, from where the ingenious Germans fired Werner von Braun’s slave labour-built rockets on London has an extra large car park for coaches. It’s hard to feel the profoundly anti- human values which its construction and use represents amid the slick but ultimately vacuous exhibits.

‘Enthralling, a real piece of living history of the events of the Second World War not to be missed. You can really feel the atmosphere of the place how it would have been like. The Enigma exhibition was really interesting. Very helpful staff.’ wrote Carol & Paul from Northampton

‘Well worth visiting, we spent longer there than planned; easy to visit from Channel ports’ noted James from London.

What more can you want? Yes, you might learn that the US space programme was the fruit of Nazi slave labour, interesting, but so what? What about the scientists and technicians working in the Home Counties devising weapons more terrifying than anything that von Braun might have dreamed of.